Lake Titicaca – Puno & Copacabana

We had low expectations of Puno after lots of travellers dismissed it, but we met a legend in the bus station who spoke English and sorted us out for the reed island trip and a tourist bus across the border to Bolivia. We only had a one night stay but bumped into our Spanish friends from the Colca trek, had pizzas then a cocktail in a cool rock bar playing Bob Marley records. We took the organised boat to the Uros Island the day with a very Christian family, some Israelis and a few Peruvians. The islands were interesting to see if a bit touristy. Part of me thinks the inhabitants don’t actually live there and make the 25mins boat ride back to the mainland once the tourists have left for the day.

We crossed the border to Bolivia with relative ease and were met with a beautiful sunset on arrival in Copacobana, our lakeside retreat for the next few days. The first hotel had a shitty electric shower and poor wifi but hosted a good brekky and was comfortable. We had a lovely first meal out with the some of the best nachos we’ve ever had and the best tunes I’d heard thus far on the trip.
Next day, we climbed the small but steep hill above the town and booked a room in a better hotel with panoramic lake views, La Cupula. We also hired a pedalo and then took beers back to our room and played cards which ended up being a fun evening!

The next day the hotel required cash payment and we had a slight ATM dilemna/meltdown as we rushed around trying to find one that would work. With that sorted we looked around the impeccably white cathedral and checked into the new room which was split level with a mezzanine floor and very cosy. The restaurant has amazing views and after lunch and an extended nap we hired bikes and took a ride around the bay for the sunset before returning to jump in the hot tub. It was a definite life memory as we sat there watching what was the most impressive thunderstom we’d ever seen unfold before our eyes.

The next day we had arranged to visit the Isla del sol after Lonely Planet suggested it would be a Bolivian highlight. In the end we felt the place was a bit over hyped since despite the amazing setting and views, the footpaths were really poor, as was the map which we were following. It led to a rare failure by me in the navigation dept, but still it was nice to see the place and have a sandwich overlooking the lake in peace away from the hustle and bustle.

We had arranged a late checkout which was perfect for our 1.30pm bus to La Paz. One the way down to the bus station, Claire found a place that served BEANS. Nevertheless, they were not a patch on Heinz and she left with a sour taste in her mouth. We got to bus stop on time and waited to put our bags on. The lady in charge had other plans however and decided we would be best placed on a different bus as the initial one was overbooked. Trouble was the other bus was not what you’d call a tourist bus and we ended up sharing our 5/6 hour journey with a heap of locals who despite their trout breath and BO, didn’t cause us any issues and we arrived in La Paz bang on time.

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