We arrived just as the sun was going down but the days final rays cast a beautiful light across the deep valley where the capital’s buildings desperately cling to stupendously steep cliffs at either side. The city sprawls like you wouldn’t believe but it has a certain charm about it at least in the city centre area where we spent most of our time.
The first night we checked in to Arthy’s guesthouse then went to a cuban restaurant in the main area around Plaza San Francisco – often the site of mass political and civil protests. The next morning we jumped on the recently opened, and worlds highest cable car, which took us up to the highest part of the city, El Alto. The views were superb and we really got a sense of the size of the city as well as a unique view of its poorest areas. It was also fascinating to see the huge cemetery from above, as Bolivians stack their dead rather than bury them which results in several floors of coffins.
After we took a walk around the central areas and had brunch in an English bar and our first cup of English tea in 4 weeks…boy did it go down well. After we walked around the cobbled streets towards the infamous Witches’ Market, where Claire was mesmerised by a strange shop keeper who proceeded to explain his many charms and potions on sale. The market is also known for selling the fairly gruesome, llamas foetus’ which are strung up in their dozens outside the shops. We were told they are used as offerings for Mother Nature aka Pachamama. The rest of the afternoon we soaked in more of what the streets had to offer and headed back to our hostel for takeout pizza and movie night.
The following day we sent some postcards and extended our Bolivian visas (which was surprisingly easy) before taking a walk down to Sopacachi, the city’s trendy upmarket area. We had a lovely coffee on the Plaza there before walking back to hostel via plaza San Pedro and marvelling at the cities insanely tangled over head electric cables.
The next day it was time to fly to Rurrenabaque, our base for the Bolivian jungle trek.
If you like Piña Coladas... 