We landed at Tivat airport before lunch on Monday but the airport and car hire scenario were carnage so it took a little while to get through. Eventually on the road we headed for the town of Tivat just 10min away, it was absolutely boiling so we quickly picked a spot for lunch right on the water. Tivat is a new town filled with designer shops, fancy restaurants and yachts but after a quick potter along the front we were rather sticky and decided to set off to our hotel in Perast. This was about 45min round the coast of the Bay of Kotor, the town of Perast is a UNESCO world heritage site and is car free so we abandoned ours on the side of the road and got a lift to the hotel on a golf cart! We were staying at the Heritage Grand Perast and it was lovely, our room had a beautiful view straight out over the water. We wasted no time in finding a spot by the pool to relax for the rest of the afternoon, you can also dive straight into the bay which of course Dan did. It’s a small, peaceful town but very pretty and the views of the bay and surrounding mountains are gorgeous. For dinner we walked to Bocalibre at one end of town for honestly one of the best pizzas we’ve ever had!
Tuesday was another scorcher so after a morning swim in the spa and breakfast on the terrace over the water we were straight back to the pool for the day. Late afternoon we drove to the Kotor cable car, this is 11min and 1,316m up for spectacular views of both parts of the bay and out to sea. Its right on the edge of Lovcen national park and various hiking trails, you could also drive up the Serpentine road for a similar view if you don’t fancy the cable car.
Next we stopped at Kotor old town and had dinner at Scala Santa featuring a delicious sea bream to share. Afterwards we explored the quaint streets and city walls, there’s live music on every corner and so many cats. We couldn’t resist some gelato to cool down, then it was time to head home.
Wednesday and my 40th birthday! After breakfast we wandered up to the other end of town and the teeny tiny beach complete with pirate bar, then to the spa for massages before a few hours by the pool. Late afternoon we took one of the many taxi boats 5min over to Our Lady of the Rocks island for a stunning 360 degree view of the bay and back to Perast. As the sun was dipping behind the mountains we indulged in a couple of piña coladas although these were tainted a little by the intermittent but revolting sewage smell which seems to plague Perast! Dinner was pasta at Conte as the lights round the bay twinkled, a lovely evening to finish a really special birthday.
Last day, we went west from Perast about 40min to Portonovi, this is a giant luxury resort and slightly odd but we came for the beach club which was great. We had a tasty lunch, enjoyed the golden sand beach and dipped in and out of the sea, mercifully there was some hazy cloud and a decent breeze which was delightful! Another 15min takes you to the town of Herceg-Novi which we really liked, this is also pretty close to the Croatian border if you wanted to pop over. A wander through the old town took us down to the seafront which was packed with locals enjoying the evening sun, we grabbed a slice and a drink and watched the world go by for a while. The drive home was beautiful and by the time we got back to Perast the sky had turned the most glorious shades of pink.
And that was Montenegro! Loads more you can do, coastal towns including picturesque Sveti-Stefan, Lustica Peninsula and the Blue Cave, lakes and national parks inland, but we didn’t have long and quite frankly it was too damn hot. But a lovely break, stunning scenery and a great way to spend a 40th. The less said about the airport on the way home the better…
If you like Piña Coladas... 